The fashion icon Edward Enninful reflects on Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than in the 90s.

A chance encounter on the London Underground in 1988 altered the course of a young Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the city's electric 1990s creative scene, progressing from model to stylist and, while still a teenager, becoming the style editor of the publication i-D.

"It was the peak of the YBA movement – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I felt we’d be kindred spirits. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday bled into Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that spontaneity."

Although Enninful appears nostalgic, he is not the only one. Recently, a longing look back of the 1990s has become pervasive. But over the last thirty years, Enninful believes a significant change. "In my view, we’re less accepting now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "This isn't just this country – it’s everywhere."

A Cultural Backslide

This change is hard to ignore: the rise of populist movements, the reaction against progressive values, and the return of Eurocentric beauty standards. Where once there was the optimism of the Blair era, now a different political figure appears as a potential leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an badge of national pride, has become contentious again.

In Enninful's view, the solution has always been to champion culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the core philosophy behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, showcasing a wide range of cultural icons from literature.

"Individuals with a platform should employ it," he comments, referring to those editorial decisions. "People often debate about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain hadn't been a lenient country, if it hadn't given my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I cherished. I hope this phase will end."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He finds hope in the younger generation: "They are far more conscious than we were. They talk about unconscious bias – I had no concept what that was."

His formative years would forge a trailblazing career marked by fearlessness and diversity. Enninful made history as the first man, first Black editor, first openly gay person, and first disabled gay man of colour to take the helm at British Vogue. His tenure featured diverse covers showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, older individuals, and individuals from varied communities. Significantly, sales increased.

"Ignoring huge sections of the population, it’s not just that you’re failing to represent – it’s commercially unwise," he states.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has recently launched his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his first major project since leaving his former post. He expresses a desire to continue being a "change-maker".

"I’ve always questioned the established norms. I was born and raised in a place where everybody was black – the doctors, the attorneys, the president. Then we arrived in England, penniless, and I found myself on the margins. I was very shy. My teachers said I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the Sus laws … this duality gave me a sense of being between worlds."

Contrary to the popular image of industry figures as brash and temperamental, Enninful is calm and projects peace. His life has involved challenges, including well-documented periods of depression and addiction.

He has also undergone serious health challenges, having had multiple operations on his eyes, resulting in limited vision. "I experienced such a difficult period for two years, away from work, anxious I was going to lose my sight. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I thought, if this ever passes, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

A Foray into Curation

This drive to fit into a box has inspired him beyond the world that established him. He is now organising a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a group of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to explore the decade's creative cross-pollination – and spotlight those who lacked a spotlight at the time.

"Galleries often failed to promote the right artists because they did not have the traditional credentials," he states.

This project itself functions with a unique strategy, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of creative collaborations. "We ask, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an event, a series? The magazine is one component of a greater ecosystem."

An Unstoppable Drive

Today, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most influential cultural influencers. His story, he states, is a proof to the power of pursuing your passions.

How would the Enninful of that era think of the man he has become? He laughs heartily. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be impressed. At that time I was a rebel. I didn't think institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He pauses. "I never take anything for granted. We lost our home, we left our homeland. I almost lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have underestimated me my whole career. But nothing can stop me once I’ve made up my mind to do something."